GARGANTUAN steps
Tuesday, April 23, 2019
in God we trust
sicut patribus, sit deus nobis
God be with us, as He was with our fathers
- motto of Boston
I have only fond memories of my previous time in the States, visiting Washington D.C. in 2017, and I was particularly looking forward to my trip back, this time to Boston, for the Harvard Infectious Disease Board Review Course, and then on to New York, just cause it is in the vicinity. If Washington is where the political centre of the country is (and also home to some of the finest museums I've ever been), then Boston is the historic core of the country (or so the Americans would have you believe). It would seem modern day America began right here, with Boston being the spark that begun the American Revolution. Before that, it was nothing more than just a British colony, and Boston was, and is, part of an area familiarly known as New England. Briefly, the American Revolution began following the imposition of taxes on their colonies by the British (without a representative of theirs in the British parliament), and most evidently, this did not sit well with them. A few incidents happened, including the Boston Massacre in 1770, where the British soldiers shot and killed five Bostonians, with Crispus Attucks credited to be the first American to have died for the American Revolution. Things further escalated till the British were on the cusp of imposing their military might and destroying the local military supplies, but the locals rose up to defend their colony and thus began the American Revolution and the nation's War of Independence. The war was fought between 1775 and 1783, and the name itself implies success for the former British colony (American and Revolution), with General George Washington rising from his military success in the war, to political success, becoming the first President of the United States.
Days 1-3 - Boston: The Freedom Trail, Harvard Infectious Diseases in Adults, and dinner with the bosses
After a gruelling near 21 hour flight from Singapore, with a stopover in Hong Kong, I landed in Boston just in time to catch up on more sleep. With a twelve hour time difference, it was going to be hard thing to do, with a hungry stomach and an active mind. But still I manage a few hours before commencing on my Freedom Trail walk, bright and early, at six in the morning. Thankfully the weather was forgiving at that time to complete this 4 km walk (8 km if you include the walk back)! The Freedom Trail commemorates important historical sites located within Boston, and is somewhat of an urban hike. A self-directed tour if you so wish, it begins at the oldest park in America, Boston Common, and winds through a few important political landmarks, churches, statues and cemeteries, Benjamin Franklin's old school (the Boston Latin School), the oldest house in Boston (Paul Revere's house), a bookshop that has now converted to a Mexican fast food chain, a battleship, and an obelisk dedicated to a military battle site of the American Revolution. As most of the sites were only opened after ten, and I was done way before that, it was just a quick picture/pit stop at each site!
Early morning walk at the Boston Public Garden
The Freedom Trail - beginning at Boston Common, the oldest park in America
Granary Burying Ground
Taking centre-stage with a monumental tombstone is the resting place of Josiah and Abiah Franklin, the parents of Benjamin Franklin. Benjamin Franklin himself is interred in Philadelphia.
A medallion commemorating the site of the Boston Massacre
(Only) Five Bostonians died. In the middle is a 5-point star (signifying the five who died), enclosed by six cobblestones (signifying six people who were wounded), and 13-spokes of cobblestones radiating from the centre, representing the then thirteen colonies in that time.
Paul Revere's House
Paul Revere,
an American Patriot and a son of Boston who only gained fame posthumously for
riding at midnight to warn the colonial militia of the impending British
attack, thus heralding the dawn of the American revolution. Like most
artists (though he was a silversmith), his fame came only after his death,
where he was immortalised in a poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow entitled
- 'Paul Revere's Ride'. I did visit his house (the oldest in Boston) which was
a humble, two-storey abode (though probably not so humble during his time!) No photography allowed within so there's only a facade to contend with.
The Freedom Trail
The U.S.S. Constitution
Built in 1797, this is the oldest ship in the U.S. Navy and is nicknamed 'Old Ironsides' for apparently having cannonballs (that were shot at it) bouncing off its sides.
Monument on Bunker Hill
The site of the first major battle between the British and the colonialists in the American Revolutionary War
Me at Massachusetts General Hospital
One of the top hospitals in the world (though it ranks below SGH in the year 2019) and the home base of the top-ranking medical journal in the world - The New England Journal of Medicine, or more fondly known as NEJM.
After a short rest back in my room, it was off for the start of my course, the Harvard Infectious Diseases for Adults course. Held from a Monday to Saturday, with entire days of lectures akin to my days back in medical school, this was part of the final push before sitting for my exit examinations!
Copley Square with Fairmont Copley Plaza (the building on the right) the venue of my course
The Harvard Infectious Diseases in Adults 2019 Course
A walk by the Boston Main Channel
Dinner at Ocean Prime with Prof Tambyah and Dr Kamal
Days 4-6 - Charles River, the Universities - Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Harvard University and the Harvard Medical School, and Fenway Park
On the drier afternoons and evenings of my time in Boston (it was raining for the bulk of my trip), I took a walk to various places of 'attractions' that Boston had to offer. I wouldn't consider a university a place of attraction, but when you're within walking distance of Harvard University and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology), then it is definitely worth paying a visit. Harvard University and MIT consistently rank within the top 10, in fact, the top 5 universities in the world, and I guess I can now safely say I have some affiliation to the former, having attended a course conducted by them!
An evening stroll by Charles River
A very pleasant suggestion from my friend Alex, if you ever find yourself in Boston
The view from Harvard Bridge straddling across Charles River
The famous great dome of MIT
John Harvard
Founder
1638
Apparently, this statue contains three lies. Firstly, although the name 'John Harvard' is inscribed on the stone, the statue was actually modelled after Sherman Hoar, who was then a student of the college, as there were no records of how John Harvard looked like (and currently as well). Secondly, John Howard was not the founder of Harvard University - he was just the first major benefactor to the university. Finally, Harvard was founded in 1636, not 1638. So much for the motto of the university - 'veritas'. Which means 'truth'.
Old South Church
At the other corner of Copley Square (where my course was held), stands the Old South Church. Built and completed in 1873, its birth came about in 1669 following a breakaway faction of dissenting members from the Boston's First Church, forming a Protestant Christian denomination known as the United Church of Christ. Renown members of this community include - Benjamin Franklin, and the former President of the United States - Barack Obama.
Interior of the church
Fenway Park - home of the Boston Red Sox, the local baseball team (whose owners also own Liverpool F.C., hence my only reason for visiting this ground)
Me at Harvard Medical School
The second museum of the day was the Metropolitan Museum, a hulking gallery of artwork gathered from throughout the globe. After completing a portion of one level (the European Art gallery), I was feeling museum-fatigue and skimmed through the rest of the museum. As usual, the highlights for me pertain to van Gogh, whom I have now officially confirmed as my favourite painter.
After a gruelling six days of lectures in Boston, it was time to head down south for a wind down in New York City.
Days 7-8 - New York: Times Square, Jazz at Lincoln Centre, mass at St. Patrick's Cathedral, and The Book of Mormon
A good four and a half hours of a train-ride later, I was now in the city more fondly known as the Big Apple. People often suspect that New York City is so called the Big Apple because the city must be in the shape of an apple. But after staring at the map for a long time, the most that you can say is that it looks like the core of an eaten apple. But historically, it was the African-American slaves who were stable hands in New Orleans who first called it the 'Big Apple'. It was where the big-time horse-racing venues were held, a place of opportunity. And this name carried on rumbling in the background till it took off in the 1970s when it was used as a catchy moniker to popularise the city. And so, the Big Apple signifies as the ultimate goal for someone to reach and attain, and the name has stuck ever since.
New York is not quite unlike London, just a handful or more of high-rise buildings. And by high-rise, I mean skyscrapers. The streets line up in a grid-like fashion, and on the streets, enclosed by these metal trunks, one can feel rather claustrophobic. The massive hordes of people, both locals and tourists, don't make it any better. One becomes anonymized, a worker (or tourist) bee in a hive of endless bustling activity. But even then, people were generally quite helpful, especially on the trains when you are looking lost, much more so than my experience London! In that sense, this trait speaks of the multi-cultural status that is New York City - it is after all a city built up by immigrants. Everyone belongs. Being in New York actually felt like I was in India, with the endless crowds and traffic noise, at all times of the day and night. But India definitely felt more raw than this - New York City is, if I may call it, more controlled chaos.
A good four and a half hours of a train-ride later, I was now in the city more fondly known as the Big Apple. People often suspect that New York City is so called the Big Apple because the city must be in the shape of an apple. But after staring at the map for a long time, the most that you can say is that it looks like the core of an eaten apple. But historically, it was the African-American slaves who were stable hands in New Orleans who first called it the 'Big Apple'. It was where the big-time horse-racing venues were held, a place of opportunity. And this name carried on rumbling in the background till it took off in the 1970s when it was used as a catchy moniker to popularise the city. And so, the Big Apple signifies as the ultimate goal for someone to reach and attain, and the name has stuck ever since.
New York is not quite unlike London, just a handful or more of high-rise buildings. And by high-rise, I mean skyscrapers. The streets line up in a grid-like fashion, and on the streets, enclosed by these metal trunks, one can feel rather claustrophobic. The massive hordes of people, both locals and tourists, don't make it any better. One becomes anonymized, a worker (or tourist) bee in a hive of endless bustling activity. But even then, people were generally quite helpful, especially on the trains when you are looking lost, much more so than my experience London! In that sense, this trait speaks of the multi-cultural status that is New York City - it is after all a city built up by immigrants. Everyone belongs. Being in New York actually felt like I was in India, with the endless crowds and traffic noise, at all times of the day and night. But India definitely felt more raw than this - New York City is, if I may call it, more controlled chaos.
View from my hotel - Yotel New York
Which was only one of the few good things I could say about it
People tell me that in New York, make sure to catch the numerous musicals in Broadway, but for me, it is all about the multitude of world renown jazz clubs here, and it was these venues that I trawled. Jazz originated from New Orleans, but it was in New York where it was brought to the world stage. And I guess, after this trip, my appetite has been satiated! After a brief stop at the busiest venue in New York, Times Square, I was off to the Jazz at Lincoln Center to once again be a Wynton Marsalis fanboy. This time in his home arena.
Times Square
Times Square is like the Piccadilly Circus of London, the Shibuya crossing of Tokyo, and I would say Orchard Road in Singapore but that really pales in comparison
Me at Jazz at Lincoln Center
A night of country music
Ken Burns with Wynton Marsalis and the Jazz at Lincoln Centre
One of the highlights of the night was the singer Rhiannon Giddens
St. Patrick's Cathedral
The seat of the archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York
Packed mass celebrated by Cardinal Timothy Dolan
It was a special mass for the New York Fire Department, as well as Confirmation day for many children throughout the whole of New York City
KFC
Finally found one in New York City - there seems to be a dearth of them throughout America, compared to MacDonald's where there seems to be one at every other block
The Book of Mormon
A blasphemous hilarity, this was the only musical I watched in Broadway, which speaks about two Mormons proselytizing to the people in Uganda. Written by the creators of South Park (the cartoon), I chuckled one too many times throughout the show.
Day 9 - New York: The Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty, the MoMA and the Village Vanguard
The next day was one of only two sunny days of my time in New York, and like an early day immigrant in New York (and a typical Singaporean), I grabbed the opportunity to ascend the second-tallest building in New York - the Empire State Building. Completed in 1931, it is famous for a few things, one of which was being the tallest building (443 m) in New York till the World Trade Centre was built in 1970, and then now second to the new One World Trade Centre. Its other claim to fame is being the building that King Kong scaled in New York with his beauty, Ann, before it was cruelly shot down.
View from the 86th floor of the Empire State Building
With not a minute to lose, I was off to the Statue of Liberty, the most iconic landmark in America I would say, even more so than the White House. The Statue of Liberty was a gift from the French, in celebration of the victory in the Civil War and the abolition of slavery in America. Dedicated in 1886, the statue has been a source of inspiration to the Americans ever since, a reminder of their freedom and democracy. It is said to have been an uplifting sight for the early immigrants, whose only way into America was to sail through these waters before disembarking at Ellis Island in New York. If you want to climb up to the crown, you'll have to book tickets up to four months in advance, and my trip there consisted of just surveying the lower grounds, which was equally satisfying.
The Statue of Liberty and Manhattan Island of New York City
Up close and personal
The tablet in her hand reads "JULY IV MDCCLXXVI" - 4th July 1776 - the date of the U.S. Declaration of Independence
Me with Lady Liberty
The back of the Statue of Liberty
The Starry Night
At the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
I've come to the conclusion that van Gogh is probably my favourite artist with his use of contrasted deep colours and thick brush strokes of seemingly every day life. I've finally come face to face with a picture that paints a thousand words (actually just a song). Van Gogh painted this after he had voluntarily interred himself in the Saint-Paul asylum in Saint-Remy following the self-amputation his left ear - legend says he either suffered from neurosyphilis or digitalis toxicity. This is the supposed view from his window (coupled with whatever was going through his mind).
Listening to the Vanguard Orchestra at the Village Vanguard
This is probably the most renown jazz club in the world, if you've never heard of it
Day 10 - New York: The National September 11 Memorial Museum, the Brooklyn Bridge and the High Line
One of the most sombre museums I've ever visited, the National September 11 Memorial Museum commemorates that most horrific day in our modern world that changed our times. On 11th September 2001, four United Airline flights were hijacked by al-Qaeda terrorists, with two of them crashing into the twin towers of the World Trade Centre in New York, one into the Pentagon, and the last one into a field in Pennsylvania after that hijack attempt was thwarted by its passengers. It was thought that the last plane was bound for the Capitol building in Washington D.C., the seat of the US Congress. This act of jihad by the Islamist terrorists launched the war on jihad by the Americans, and the world has been experiencing more unrest ever since. The footage of the plane crashes, and seeing all the wreckage and destruction in the museum, still left a sense of shock in me after all these years. I still remember vividly the night it happened (night time in Singapore), I was preparing for my 'O' level preliminary examinations (and crossing my fingers it would be postponed, but it wasn't). Because of that one single day, 2996 lives were lost, including 343 firefighters, and 72 law enforcement officers. It was one of the darkest days in American history. What now lies in the original buildings' footprints are two large fountains, symbolizing the lost and emptiness of that which can never be replaced.
National September 11 Memorial Museum
No day shall erase you from the memory of time
From 'The Aeneid' by Virgil
Supporting steel structure crushed and contorted by the impact and heat
Fire Truck crushed by fallen debris
A sea of memory - what remains at one of the former tower sites
Crossing the Brooklyn Bridge
On the High Line
Other touristy things I accomplished on that day included crossing the Brooklyn Bridge, another major landmark in New York, and walking along the High Line. The High Line is a 2.3 km walk along a former railway track now converted to an elevated park. Beautifully done, a nice place to soaked in the city if devoid of its crowds.
Days 11 and 12 - New York: The American Museum of Natural History, the Metropolitan Museum, Tuck and Patti, and Central Park
My final two days in the city were spent doing one of my favourite past times in a foreign country - visiting more museums. The first was the American Museum of Natural History, made famous by the movie trilogy, "Night at the Museum", starring Ben Stiller where he works as a newly hired night-time security guard in a museum whose objects/subjects become alive when the sun sets. As always the attractions for me are the prehistoric collection of dinosaur bones - I've figured it's probably the use of Latin names that peaks my interest - 'Tyrannosaurus Rex', 'Staphylococcus aureus'. Mysteriously sounding, terrifying to look at, and they don't take prisoners, there's just something about them.
With the Tyrannosaurus Rex in the American Museum of Natural History
An enlarged Anopheles mosquito - spreader of the deadly infectious disease, malaria
Joan of Arc
Jules Bastien-Lepage
One of my favourite paintings in The Met (as the museum is more fondly known as), it depicts a scene where Joan of Arc is visited by three angels - Saints Michael, Margaret and Catherine, rousing her to fight against the English
Sunflowers
Vincent van Gogh
I never tire of them
Tuck and Patti at the Iridium
It was a beautiful performance, watching the two of them perform
Central Park
Outside Trump Tower
My final day was spent walking around Central Park, a behemoth of a park (843 acres) right smack in the middle of Manhattan. It is actually a very beautiful park, away from the traffic and smog, and in the distance, you can still see the skyscrapers that highlight its boundaries, and reminds you of the inevitable return to the grime of work. My walk back to my hotel brought me past Trump Tower - side by side were two men, one for, and one against Trump. And there was another passerby taking a picture of herself showing the middle finger in the direction of the building - you'd think people had better things to do than this! But these people do what they believe is most important, and if that is what they hold dearly to their hearts, then so be it. Meanwhile, I have my own monster to slay, the dreaded exit examinations at the end of the month!
It has been a wonderful trip and it is now time to refocus my efforts on the endgame, a favourite phrase in current times!
Labels: Boston, Concert, Conference, Friends, History, Museum, Music, New York City, North America, Seven Wonders of the World, Theatre, Travel, United States of America, War, Wynton Marsalis
posted by Gabriel Yan at 7:43 AM
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