GARGANTUAN steps

Saturday, March 28, 2015

candide secure - nec curo, nec careo

candour and security - i care not, i want not

This was my second trip to the U.K. in the space of a month, my first being there for examination preparatory courses in London, and now I was back to take my examinations, in Edinburgh. Like the Scots way back in Sir William Wallace's time, and then not too long ago when they held a referendum for their independence from England last year, I longed for freedom (from studying from PACES). But fate dealt me a similar blow as the Scots in both eras, and yet to be free from my shackles, I will be back for a fight sooner rather than later. For the history buffs, Sir William Wallace (of Braveheart fame) was a Scottish hero who fought for Scotland's independence back in the 13th and 14th century, but was subsequently captured by the English, hanged, emasculated, eviscerated, drawn and finally quartered. Scotland did eventually gain its independence under Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, in the 14th century, but were eventually united back with England in 1707. They have never parted ways ever since, though they were close to it last year when a bout of Scottish nationalism swept through the northern territories of Great Britain. Having said that though, they still draw a very firm line between the borders - a Scottish breakfast and an English breakfast are intimately the same in all but name, but don't you let either of them know that.  

Days 1-3 - Fort William: Doune Castle, Eilean Donan Castle, the Glenfinnan Viaduct and epic drives

Our short trip begun with a 15 hour flight from Singapore to Edinburgh, with a stopover in Amsterdam. This was incidentally Chun Yi and myself's second trip to Scotland (though we previously made our way there separately), and both were made in summer with nary a jacket nor worry around our shoulders. Now, we headed to Edinburgh in the tail end of winter, with temperatures hovering just above freezing point. Like a typical Brit, the immigration officer barely lifted an eyebrow when we mentioned that we were there for a 6-day holiday, all the way from Singapore. I guess we must have looked pretty harmless, or clueless.

Meanwhile, we picked up our rented car and were off on an additional 3 hour ride north of Edinburgh (as if the weather wasn't cold enough) to our destination for the next two nights at Fort William, of which the reason for our choice of destination will be elaborated upon later. It was a glorious drive through wondrous scenery of snow-capped mountains lining along either side of the road, and what was meant to be a 3 hour drive ended up nearly an hour and a half more with multiple photo stops at each turn of the road. One pit stop took us to the medieval castle of Doune, with the word Doune being derived from its Galic equivalent of 'dùn', which means fort. Doune Castle was built in its current form in 1381 by Robert Stewart, one of the great grandsons of Robert the Bruce. Doune Castle, interestingly, was used as the set for Winterfell (of Game of Thrones fame), and more importantly, as the main castle set in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Deciding to save a few shillings and some time, we skirted along the outskirts of the castle walls before the cold reared its ugly head and we bravely turned tail and fled, and continued on our epic journey to Fort Williams where we anchored for the night.


Chun Yi and myself at Doune Castle


The staggering scenery along the way

Fort William proclaims itself to have one of the most enviable settings in the entire Scotland, with the town lining the shores of Loch Eil with Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles, as its backdrop. Together with it comes its most unenviable title - the town which receives the highest amount of rainfall in the entire British Isles. But beyond the precipitation, there is possibly no more splendid a sight then the one we were to awake to for the next two mornings. 


The view from our guest room in Fort William

One of Chun Yi's wishes on this trip was to see a castle, and not just any castle, but one that was worthy of being featured in a Walt Disney film. Glamis Castle was the initial castle of choice for this, but unfortunately for us (or fortunately), its beauty was not to be marred by gloomy winter, and the fates (or rather, the Historic Scotland executive agency) decided that it should only be opened to the public only in the middle of Spring, in April. 

Meanwhile, we decided to make an even more arduous journey to Scotland's most heralded and picturesque site, the Eilean Donan Castle. Located near the village of Dornie, about an hour's drive away from Fort William, Eilean Donan castle stands at the intersection of three lochs - Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh. This castle mounts atop an island with a stone bridge connecting it to the shore, and a spectacular backdrop of mountains and rivers make it worthy of its deserved title. 

Named after the 6th century Irish Saint, Bishop Donnan, the castle has undergone numerous expansions and destructions since its construction in the 13th century, till it was left in ruins following the Jacobite rising in 1719. Its final shape took form after it was bought and rebuilt by Lt. Col. John MacRae-Gilstrap in 1919 and completed in 1932. As an aside, one should never drive from Fort William to Eilean Donan Castle with a headache and a Scottish breakfast-filled stomach - it makes for an emetic ride.

Eilean Donan Castle

Chun Yi and myself along the bridge
We were driving through an endless frontal rain and were afforded a short 30-min break from the rain, even with some sunshine, to take this photograph. We were extremely blessed, and cold, indeed

Dining room
Being the only two tourists in the castle, we were granted permission by the care-taker, all decked out in his kilt and beret, to take pictures of the interior when otherwise normally prohibited


Candide Secure - Nec Curo, Nec Careo
Candour and security - I care not, I want not

After I had opened a door in a corner.
'What's behind the door?' she asks 
'There is a skeleton behind it,' I mentioned before closing the door
'Arrhhhh!' she shrieks in absolute horror upon opening the same door


Chun Yi's favourite part of the castle

Views from the castle

Chun Yi and myself

We then made our way back to Fort William, with a slight detour to another famous site in Scotland, possibly more famous in the magical movie world of Harry Potter - the Glenfinnan Viaduct, where the Hogwarts Express travels atop on its way to Hogwarts. This time, there was no letting up from the rain. In the summer, the train (from Fort William to Mallaig) runs across the viaduct twice a day. We had come at the wrong time of the year.

Glenfinnan Viaduct

Mussels and Cullen Skink
The latter a Scottish dish also known as Smoked Haddock Chowder

Dinner at Crannog Restaurant

All too soon, our short stay at Fort William came to a close and it was time to make another epic journey back to Edinburgh through the mountains, but not before the entire landscape was transformed overnight following a coat of snowfall. 

By the loch at Fort William

Myrtle Bank Guesthouse
We stayed in the attic facing the loch

Through the blizzard

Braving the cold, the snow and the lashing winds


The cold never bothered me anyway

Dinner for the night - home-cooked pasta and mushroom soup

 Day 4 - Edinburgh: Calton Hill, Edinburgh Castle, Greyfriars Kirkyard and Greyfriars Bobby

 Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, and, though a city I've only previously spent a few hours in, one of the most beautiful ones I've ever been to, and I still stand by it after this trip. Considered by some the Athens of the north, with Edinburgh Castle seen as something akin to the Acropolis, Edinburgh possesses more charm and poise than its Greek counterpart. There's just something about having an old town, a new city, and natural scenery all within walking distance from one another that makes Edinburgh so unique, and dare I say, more cultured than London.

 We started off the morning heading off to church before heading off to Calton Hill which provided scenic views of the city, as well as Arthur's Seat (which we gave a miss this trip). We were intermittently covered with snow and then sunshine, and after a morning of expanding our photo album, we made a beeline towards Edinburgh's most iconic monument, the Edinburgh Castle.

View of Edinburgh Old Town from Calton Hill

Chun Yi and Edinburgh Castle in the background


Admiring views of the city in the freezing cold


Feeling the chill

Sunshine


Chun Yi and myself with the New City in the backdrop

Arthur's Seat
Which I missed climbing again this time round

Standing at the end of the Royal Mile and dominating over the entire Edinburgh skyline is the historic Edinburgh Castle. The castle is part tourist attraction, part military garrison, and is the top-most visited attraction in Edinburgh and in Scotland. Once again (just like my previous trip to Edinburgh), after we had climbed up the Royal Mile (the road leading up Castle Rock to the castle), I decided to take some photos of and with the castle, and bid a hasty retreat. We could probably have spent the afternoon visiting the interior of the castle, though it was an afternoon I could not spare, and Chun Yi had previously explored the castle during her last visit. I guess I will be back there again some day, to properly visit it the next time round, and to properly climb Arthur's Seat as well.

Chun Yi and myself at Edinburgh Castle

Our next stop before lunch was to Greyfriars Kirkyard, which was apparently where J. K. Rowling got her inspiration for the names of her characters in the Harry Potter series. Though we hunted fervently for Tom Riddles and Dumbledores and McGonagalls, we failed miserably to find a single one. Meanwhile, we chanced upon Greyfriars' very own Bobby. Greyfriars Bobby was a Skye Terrier who apparently spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray, till it met its own demise in 1872. Its tomb lies within the graveyard itself and inscribed upon it are the words 'Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all'. One wonders how Duku Bobbie will behave in such circumstances. Following on with that, it was time for lunch, and none other than a trip to Nandos would suffice. 

Greyfriars Bobby


Me and Greyfriars Bobby

Nandos!

It was then back to our apartment where we spent the afternoon studying, and preparing for my examinations the next day. 

Hard at work

Days 5 and 6 - Earlston and Melrose: Scott's View, Leaderfoot Viaduct and St. Mary's Abbey

The next morning, my PACES examination went by in a flash at the Western General Hospital in Edinburgh, and it turned out to be both more and less than what I had expected, but I shan't dwell on it any further. After a quick lunch, we left Edinburgh to head south to visit another recommended sight in Scotland, though we decided to leave that till the next day after checking in at our guesthouse in Earlston. We were greeted very warmly by the family running Broomfield House B&B and decided to explore around the area instead after being told of a wonderful viewing spot by them. 

Scott's View, so named because it was the favourite view of one of Scotland's favourite son and poet, Sir Walter Scott (and not Sir William Wallace). Legend has it that Sir Walter Scott used to stop so frequently at this point on his way home that his horses used to halt there without command, and on the day of his funeral, the same horses stopped there as his funeral cortege passed through on route to his burial at Dryburgh Abbey, allowing him one final glimpse of his favourite sight. Overlooking the River Tweed valley with an endless tide of rolling hills amidst absolute calm and peace, and with sunset providing a spectacular backdrop, the views were just astounding. 

Scott's View

Welcome


Draped in the soft blanket of sunset


Spectacular backdrop

On our final day before heading back home, we made our way to Melrose which conceals another of Scotland's gems, St Mary's Abbey, more famously known as Melrose Abbey. Melrose Abbey is a defunct monastery now converted to a tourist site. Founded by Cistercian monks in 1136 and completed in 1146, many Scottish kings and nobles are buried within this abbey, including the embalmed heart of Robert the Bruce (the rest of his body being buried in Dunfermline Abbey). The abbey, like many other medieval structures in Scotland, underwent several bouts of destruction and rebuilding, and its current form (or lack thereof) date from the 15th century.

With the monastery lying in ruins, it was difficult to discern how the monks would have lived their spartan lives back in medieval times. The main abbey itself too lacked the grandiosity it could possibly have were it not lying half ruined, with the nave of the church exposed to the elements and sprouting nicely cropped grass. The views from the top of the abbey though were its only saving grace. Looking around though, this explained the look of surprise as well as the hint of hilariousness in the question - ' What's there to do in Melrose?' - put forth to us after telling the car rental agent where we were headed to when we were leaving Edinburgh.


On the road to Melrose - the Leaderfoot Viaduct


Close-up of the viaduct


Chun Yi


Amongst the ruins of Melrose Abbey

Views from the top

Chun Yi with the ruins of Melrose Abbey behind


St Mary's Abbey

Chun Yi and me

And with that, our trip to Scotland came to a gentle end as we headed back to Edinburgh and caught our flight back home. Though we had to endure the bone-chilling cold, we did manage to explore many beautiful sights in Scotland, and I'm just glad, and blessed, to have the company and support I had throughout the trip. Looking forward, as always, to the next one, though I know I'll probably have to come back to the U.K. again, sooner rather than later.

Best place in the world to be

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posted by Gabriel Yan at 12:21 AM 0 comments

Friday, June 15, 2007

nemo me umpune lacessit

nemo me umpune lacessit
"no one provokes me with impunity"
- motto of Scotland

 "wha daur meddle wi me?"
- Scottish translation

 " who dare's meddle with me?"
- English version

Just got back from four days of almost endless travelling! Spending Monday to Wednesday in Scotland and yesterday in Oxford, which was probably the best part of the four days. The lack of sleep has decreased my body's immunity and I am currently down with a cold and block nose, which irritates me to no end. I've also just cut my hair, at a Japanese hair-dresser. They charge less if you let the academy students cut (5 pounds as compared to their usual price of 25 pounds!) My hair is still rather long, unfortunately, but my hair dresser really put in a lot of effort and patience, and I just couldn't bear to tell her that I wanted it shorter (after wearing my spectacles at the end).

Meanwhile, here are the pictures of my recent trip!

Scotland

Me and my friend Yinru at George Square

Me and Glasgow University and the River Clyde

Yinru was my classmate way back in JC (that's an amazing 5 years ago! I feel old) She kindly accommodated me in my stay in Glasgow and happily brought me around on the first day! Unfortunately, she wasn't able to go with my to Stirling and Edinburgh, but I still managed fine!


Robert the Bruce


Church of the Holy Rude

I went to Stirling on my second day in Scotland. Stirling is renown for two battles. The Battle of Stirling Bridge, in which William Wallace fought the English. Unfortunately, he was betrayed, quartered, hanged and mutilated in London. There was a monument two miles north of Stirling called the Wallace Monument, which apparently contained his two handled sword, but I didn't have the time to go and have a look. 

Another battle famous in Stirling is the Battle of Bannockburn, which was where Robert the Bruce defeated the English. This battleground was two miles south of Stirling and I was quite caught in between. So I just went skirting around the central area and went to see the castle, and that's about it before leaving for Edinburgh! Something interesting is that there's a church called the Church of the Holy Rude in Stirling! I was quite amazed to see it. It's ok to be rude if you're holy I guess.


Me and Edinburgh Castle


Me assuming I was climbing Arthur's Seat


Arthur's Seat
(The peak in the background)

Edinburgh is probably the most beautiful city I've ever seen. There's the New Town with the high streets and shops and all, and then there's the Old Town where the Castle is situated right at the top, surveying the entire city. It is quite an awe-inspiring sight to see the castle perched up high above the city.

Nearby is a park called Holyrood Park. It's not really a park, but where the highest point in Edinburgh is. The peak is called Arthur's Seat, and it is an extinct volcano. I foolishly followed some people who were climbing up a path and I thought that to be the path to Arthur's Seat. I reached the top of that path and looked up, and I saw Arthur's Seat far away. The path led down again. I had used the wrong path and I was pretty cheesed off with myself! But still, the view was quite spectacular from up there! I was quite tired though, and it reminded me of my time in army climbing Mt Biang and stuff.
That's about all for my trip to Scotland, which wasn't really too eventful, due to a lack of company. I shall try in future never to travel alone again. It is quite boring.

Oxford




Me and All Soul's College
(apparently the most brilliant of all the colleges in Oxford, and they only accept Fellows)


Me punting with Ben Loh enjoying himself finally


Nandos, our treat of the day
Together with Ben Loh and his girlfriend, Zhi Jing

It's my second time to Oxford, but this time with a student studying there bringing me around! All thanks to Ben Loh's girlfriend, Zhi Jing, for being my tour guide. In return, I punted for them whilst they enjoyed each other's company! Ben Loh used to just have to punt so now I have relieved him of his duties!

Punting is just using a pole and dropping it into the river and using it to propel the boat forward, It is quite tiring and back breaking, cause you have to steer the boat with that long pole using your back muscles. It felt good to get a work out though! 

They were still having exams in Oxford, and the students had to wear gowns for the exams! Which is really extremely traditional! On the first day of the exams, they have to put a white carnation on their gown, on the last day, red carnations and in between, pink! Apparently, this is just to give the florist money.

Ben Loh and I caught up on good times (we are walking buddies to school) and discussing floorball and tactics. It was great to meet his girlfriend too, who showed hospitality beyond what was necessary, and I'm really thankful for that! We treated ourselves to Nandos (which is a restaurent selling roast chicken!) for dinner and it was an excellent end to my day!

Meanwhile, it's time to vacate my hall and prepare for my trip to Italy and France and then back home!

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posted by Gabriel Yan at 11:54 PM 0 comments